Monday, February 15, 2016

in big surf today, water warm as embryonic fluid, my central nervous system tunes in to conditions from all angels. 
surface issues can be dealt with with my surfing philosophy, challenges come in waves. some wipe you out, some you ride, some you have to know when to dive under and let them pass. 
im in zen surf now, time obliterates, self in non existence. my fin is me, i am.

No comments: