Wednesday, January 01, 2014

new years i manage to get home at 2330, collapse on my rug and chill, within seconds my phone rings and it's a friend on the coast who asks me over, she's got a persuasive voice so i drive over and watch a dvd with her. 
when i wake up it's about 0630, i head down to terrible beach but as i'm cruising down some misty road in avoca i get stopped by the police and tested for alcohol, there's police everywhere coming out of the mists sirens ablaze, they see me as i have the window down, and i am wearing my round sunglasses listening to strange music, driving well withn the speed limit as well. i guess i looked a bit outta place for them. it was all to surreal until i hit the beach, not the best surf but man it felt good to get into. i really needed it, could feel my sense of self aligning, my aura stopped leaking and i just melted into the ocean. i can't afford to miss the ocean now, every morning when i have to be somewhere else is a morning distracted from my need to be in the water, 
admittedly i do like safe and sound conditions and in order to bodysurf with my fin. i require a nice wave or two but generally the conditions are good for getting wet. early mornings is best, the water temperature is perfect, there's no people around, just a few old sailors swimming out to the buoy as they do every morning. they all wave when they see me, they think i'm a real novelty, a man with a fin, which indeed i guess i am.
happy new years and all that jazz.

  

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