known predominately for it's beaches australia does have the best i've ever seen anywhere on earth, and i believe that like everything in life, you have to find the beach that suits you. everyone has a relationship with a specific beach, just like say a man would with a woman, get to know it's moods, ebbs and flows, find it's passivity, recognise it's gentleness and anger, respect and revere it, the beach ain't just a bunch of sand and water.
i fell in love with avalon, particularly north avalon where i surfed almost three times a day for about five years. to be honest i was never a board surfer, i didn't see the point of being perpendicular to the water choosing the body surfing concept and then once i got hold of a had fin i was obsessed with the idea of surfing just like all the board surfers out there.
i'd wake up early skip breakfast and head down to north avalon with my friend, we would start early while there were no people, summer days you wouldn't need no wetsuit, we would spend about two hours in there, crystal clear water, perfect statuesque waves, i'd learn how to negotiate them, build up my confidence, it was exactly like dating a beautiful woman, you needed to understand the flow, the nature of the wave, the energy that it contains, all that potential under the surface, you read it like a book, sometimes the science of it would baffle me, north east west, i mean okay i get it but to me these were just points on a map, angles. i was interested in the angels in the wave form, i was interested in the mental state a surfer has, the effect the wave has over a surfer, the attitudes the significance. let me tell you the first thing you learn is fear. yeah the ocean can kill, it don't mean to, it don't mean to swallow up your flesh and smash your bones on rocks, it has no intention, it just does what it does, it's a harsh mistress right, you gotta have some respect for it, and yourself, know your limits, don't push them to far, don't think you can outsmart the ocean that stuff has been around a lot longer than you. so respect the ocean is the first law of surfing. this can be broken down into a simple ritual.
stand where the ocean meets the sand, let the water gently wash over your toes, stay at that depth, a few inches while you focus on the horizon. now it's best you do this in your spot, i always chose north avalon as it had the best surf for body surfing, a nice little sand bank made the area just the right conditions. however one needed a ritual for focusing and gratitude, for you are about to change your element. so i'd breath in the air and let it go a few times, focusing on my breathing like a meditational class, all the time watching the horizon. obviously between here that the horizon the waves would break, you would choose a place that offered smaller waves with force over bigger waves with no force, this takes a little time to work out, but eventually you do. then in the exhale of one of those breaths you would see the pathway, it would be there, and you would step forwards, getting under the water as fast as possible, kicking out with your flippers until you where just where they break. 
the second law is to tune in to the feel, this requires some kind of zen obliteration. i've always said, a surfer is both a particle and a wave, therefore in the true nature of reality but you have to let that condition be inside you else it's resistant or resistance, and that inhibits the ride.
kick of before the wave, it's instinctive, comes with practice, and when you feel it you remember it, it's part muscle memory and part some sort of psychic ability, you just feel it, just like when your learning to drive and between manual gears you get that biting point, that's what you do, feel it and kick off.
there's nothing on earth that beats that feeling, riding waves, being the wave, it's joyful. surfing makes me think about three things, fundamentals, breathing, which was is up and are my board shorts still on. 
i loved the times i spend in the ocean at avalon, i loved that beach, and i have never found another like it. i had some near death experiences in the water, especially whale beach and once at palm beach but never avalon, avalon always loved me back.
later as i became more experienced i learnt meditations in the surf, charkra rituals, energy manipulation, magick baby, yeah i used the ocean as a medium, healing, inspirational and consciousness unbounded. the water fed me, nourished my soul and gave me life.